If you have spent the last month of Ramazan quarrying for food through the heaps and piles of traditional and not so traditional snacks and delicacies available on the streets of some of the older localities of Mumbai, I’m sure by now you’ve had your Iftaar fill. As the paradoxical month of fasting and dare I say nocturnal gluttony comes to a close, I thought as a culmination to this much consuming festival, celebrated not only by the devout but by also the devourers, I’d talk a little bit about Eid-ul-Fitr itself and try and bring the attention back, from the vermillion tandoori on skewers, fluorescent green kababs and chrome yellow malai tikkas, the samosas, seekhs, rolls, bheja, gurda, kiri and kaleji and the smoke, coal and noisy tawas of Mohammed Ali Road and Bohri Mohalla.
Eid-ul-Fitr marks the end of the holy month of Ramazan a time when observing Muslims reflect and abstain from eating and drinking between dawn and dusk. The end of the fast is heralded by the first sighting of the new crescent moon and is a cue to start the celebrations with lots of sweets. That is why, in many parts of the world, Eid-ul-Fitr is also called ‘Festival of Sweets’ or ‘Sweet Eid’.
In India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and even in Afghanistan, no Eid is complete without Sheer Kurma. Literally translated as “milk with dates,” since sheer means milk in Persian and kurma means dates; this rich and creamy age-old sweet is an Eid favourite in our part of the world. It’s made with vermicelli, condensed milk, sugar, dates, and depending on which country you are from, pistachios, almonds, and raisins. The dish is then flavoured with rose water, saffron or cardamom powder. Some call it “seviyan” or “semai”.
In other Islamic countries such as Turkey where Eid is celebrated with as much gusto as the sub-continent or the Middle East, sweets are typical to their region. Sweets like Turkish Delight or Lokum, which is a gummy, candy made with sugar and cornstarch is thought to have originated 500 years ago during the Ottoman period. The chewy yet soft candy is flavoured with rose water, orange, orange blossom water, pomegranate or lemon, and the privileged indulge themselves by adding chopped pistachios, hazelnuts, walnuts, or dates. The pieces of candy are then dusted with caster sugar. I can actually sit and eat a boxful of Turkish Delight all by myself.
But my favourite sweet from that region is the Baklava. My penchant for puff pastry erupts with unbridled enthusiasm when I lay my hands of a well and freshly made Baklava. It’s a delicate sweet made with layers of crisp phyllo dough which is alternated with a sugary spiced nut mixture, layer after layer, and the whole thing is then baked and soaked in fragrant sweet syrup made with honey. This method and recipe although perfected by the Ottomans in the 15th Century after invading Constantinople, the origins of this pastry can be traced back to the ancient Assyrians, who as early as the 8th century BC were layering unleavened flat bread with chopped nuts in between, drenching it in honey and then baking it in a primitive wood oven.
In Levantine cuisines like the Syrian and Lebanese, a common Eid sweet is Ma’amoul, especially in Lebanon, where just before Eid, women, with their neighbours, sisters, cousins, and family members, meet to make these the cookies for everyone. It’s essentially shortbread, usually stuffed with dates. The end result is a crumbly, melty cookie that is stuffed with pistachios, almonds or walnuts, but has to be kneaded well with semolina and flour to get the fragile crumbly texture. This pastry melts in your mouth and is very popular in the Middle East and nearly always found on an Eid table.
If you like a Goan Bebinca then, you will love the Indonesian Lapis Legit. Much like a Bebinca which is made with flour, butter and eggs, and then is cooked in layers, the Lapis Legit contains Indonesian spices such as cardamom and clove. Also called Kue Lapis, this is a colourful version made with rice flour, coconut milk, tapioca flour and sugar. A traditional sweet from the legacy of Dutch occupation in Indonesia, this cake is a must during Eid-ul-Fitr and Christmas celebrations.
I’m going to end this overindulgent, sugar rush for Eid with two classical sweets from the Balkans and Morocco.
Tufahija, which is a bit like a deconstructed apple pie, is Bosnia’s and Herzegovina’s most famous sweet dish and is an Eid special. Very popular in neighboring Balkan countries like Serbia and Macedonia, some believe that the Tufahija (like everything else) finds its origins in Persia and was introduced to the locals in the Balkans by Ottoman invaders. The Tufahija is made with cored out apples, stuffed with walnuts and cooked in a syrup. Once stewed, the apples are individually coated with syrup and topped with whipped cream.
Eid mornings in Morocco start with a big bowl of Aseeda. Like in most other North African countries, this Bedouin inspired dish is a staple. It’s a humble, frugal dish, that is considered one of the The Prophet’s favourite dishes, eaten especially on Eid-e-Milad, his birthday. You can find versions of it in nearly all of the Maghreb region as well as in Libya, Oman, Saudi Arabia and Yemen. At its basic, it’s a humble thick porridge made of semolina, water and salt. Some of course add butter and honey or date syrup to make it richer and celebratory.
It’s amazing how, food plays such an important role in every occasion, be it religious, festive, sombre, or one of prayer and reflection. I look at it a bit differently because food itself is my prayer and religion.
