Sustainable Fashion Day celebrates the work and effort of fashion designers who aim towards a greener and more sustainable future through their eco-conscious creations. The highlight of this year’s Sustainable Fashion Day, are the six finalists who will be competing at the R|ELAN Circular Design Challenge in association with the United Nations.
Driven by a vision to raise consciousness for sustainability and circular practices across every facet of the fashion industry, Circular Design Challenge (CDC) this year went international and found creative gems from across UK, EU and APAC regions.
In the last 5 years, the Circular Design Challenge (CDC) has been pivotal in driving India’s fashion industry towards eco-consciousness. “CDC is one of the most remarkable concepts adopted by Reliance Industries. The CDC has nurtured, mentored, and promoted environmental champions leading circular and innovative collections using sustainable and recycled materials. The Challenge has established itself as the largest sustainable fashion award in India,” says Hemant D. Sharma, Sector Head – Polyester, Reliance Industries Limited (RIL), adding, “The initiative has played a crucial role in promoting circularity and sustainability in the Indian fashion industry, and after four editions in India, we are now going international to promote sustainability, and circular economy adoption globally.”
This endeavour saw a dynamic partnership between RIL, the UN in India, and Lakme Fashion Week which strive to champion transformative ideals within the realm of fashion. Commenting on the association, Shombi Sharp, UN Resident Coordinator, India says, “The UN in India is proud to be a founding partner of the Circular Design Challenge since its beginning five years ago. The UN and CDC are united in our belief that fashion can and must be both a source of joy, celebrating culture, human expression, and innovation, and a force for greening our world. Weaving together so many different threads of society and the economy, a more sustainable fashion industry can help drive the achievement of the global SDGs across a rich fabric of value chains and social connections. We look forward to unlocking circular solutions on a global scale with CDC.”
Ahead of the showcase, which will be held at the UN House in New Delhi on October 12, 2023, the finalists Pei-Wen Jin (Taiwan), Studio Medium (India), Banofi + Studio Beej (India), Without (India), Amesh Wijesekera (UK) and Felipe Fiallo (EU) shared with what that collection is all about and what R|ELAN Circular Design Challenge meant to them.
Excerpts from the Interview:
Studio Medium by Riddhi Jain and Dhruv Satija
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
This collection is made from thread waste from various tie and dye processes and textile offcuts generated in the textile and apparel manufacturing process and our own processes. It consists of 14-16 separates for men and women; it’s our take on wardrobe essentials that one needs through the year from a sari to a dress to a statement pair of denim. Techniques like embroidery, quilting, applique, patchwork, crochet, and hand knitting have informed the aesthetic and visual grammar of these novel ensembles.
What does the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
The R|Elan Circular Design Challenge is a very exciting platform for us where we get to showcase not just a beautiful collection which is made of various kinds of yarn discards but also the possibilities of scale in upcycling by simple design interventions. The 2023 edition is especially unique as this is now a global platform and we get to showcase alongside global talents and hopefully this marks the beginning of some exciting collaborations in the future.
Without by Anish Malpani
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
Our recycled material gets extracted from ‘impossible-to-recycle’ plastic waste – think packets of chips, chocolate wrappers or the notorious multi-layered plastic packaging (MLP). This MLP is also multi-colored, espousing the aura of a rainbow, but to bring uniformity to the chaos, we revive this waste to black. Our collection is a set of accessories – black and bold – comprising three different designs of sunglasses, a pair of earrings, a pendant, a necklace, a ring, and an ambitious Haute Couture piece. This will be adorned by models wearing different monochrome colours, just like those colourful packets of chips.
What does the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
R|Elan Circular Design Challenge is and has been an excellent stage for us to showcase our work. It’s also allowed us to think out of the box to conjure designs and products we wouldn’t have before and pushed us to get them done quickly. And more importantly, our business model is built in such a way that the more we sell, the more waste we recycle and the more waste pickers we empower – i.e., the more impact we have. This platform will help us drive all that and more.
Banofi + Studio Beej by Jinali Mody and Arundati Kumar
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
We will be presenting 6 bags as a part of the collection along with some complimentary accessories to complete the look. Futuristic in their silhouettes and organic in their language, these are handcrafted using Banofi, a leather alternative made from the fibres found in the stem of the banana plant which is essentially a crop waste. We are looking at 2 primary colours for the collection and 2 complimentary accent colours. The collection is also deeply inspired by the arts and culture of West Bengal as both brands Banofi and Studio Beej have their origins in Bengal. You will find this reflected through the creative uses of indigenous craft forms like Dokra and Kantha incorporated within the designs.
What does the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
Jinali Mody: As one of the top six finalists our participation in the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge (CDC) holds immense significance for us. This marks our very first fashion show, and it’s a dream come true. It also means we are competing with some of the best brands both within India and Internationally who are building circular creative businesses and that itself is a huge opportunity to learn from and exchange ideas with our peers. This challenge strongly resonates with our core values. We are eager to showcase our pathbreaking sustainable fashion creation.
Arundhati Kumar: The R|Elan Circular Design Challenge (CDC) is India’s largest platform for emerging circular businesses and for us the perfect platform to showcase what we do as disruptive brands in the fashion space. Being a finalist at this challenge is a validation that what we are building is meaningful and the future of fashion and we are thrilled to have the opportunity.
AMESH by Amesh Wijesekera
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
This capsule collection includes individually handcrafted pieces containing – AMESH signature textiles and techniques including artisanal hand knitting, crochet, and handloom. These are combined and reworked with dead stock/ upcycled fabrics focusing on printing and appliqué embroideries. The focus is on natural materials including cotton blends and woollen yarns collected from factory waste. You will also see trans-seasonal statement pieces for a shared wardrobe concept with a focus on tailoring and knitwear. The collection invites you to explore a colour palette of cinnamon earth, burning orange, ruby, monsoon blues, veralu green (olive) and luminescent lilies.
What does R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
R|Elan™ Circular Design Challenge is an exciting space to discover and support the next generation of change makers. A family that inspires, nurtures, and pushes us further.
Felipe Fiallo
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
Inspired by botanical themes the colour palette reveals crimson paired with ancestral tones of natural dyes. The Monolith Space Rainboot is sculpted from a single piece of premium recycled TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane). The Kirk Sock created with additive technology based on 80% recycled TPU and 20% virgin TPU is the perfect mix between Italian artisan-ality and advanced technology such as 3D printing and 3D knitting.
What does R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
For me, the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge has been a wonderful experience on all fronts. Being recognized as a designer in sustainable fashion and being shortlisted as a finalist is incredibly exciting and a valuable accomplishment for me. In terms of learning, I’ve had great mentors as part of the program who gave us pragmatic advice on how we could add value to our pitch, strategy and business. The one-on-one mentoring sessions in specific, were all incredibly distinct from each other, each mentor came with great capabilities and knowledge that created a richer experience and having this support was incredible.
Pei Wen-Jin
Describe the collection you have created for the show.
‘The Complete Pieces’ is a new capsule collection featuring my patented creation, ‘The Tangram’ modular system. ‘The Tangram’ is an experimental line in my brand, introducing a groundbreaking zero-waste modular fashion concept. It offers a practical way to build a circular and sustainable wardrobe while delivering an innovative wearing experience.
What does R|Elan Circular Design Challenge mean to you?
R|Elan Circular Design Challenge is not only an international platform for designers committed to sustainability and circularity, but also a powerful validation and source of motivation. It bolsters our confidence by affirming that all the unseen efforts and innovations we invest in creating environmentally and socially friendly products are indeed valuable and meaningful. This further fuels our determination to uphold these values and continue our efforts.
