Day 6 of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) India Couture Week saw couturier Suneet Varma showcase his collection, Sitara, a contemporary, theatrical representation of modern Indian women who live in today, yet embraces the romance of traditional Indian couture. A beautiful set with giant butterfly wings brought together fantasy and sophistication to the designer’s collection.
Drawing from a fashion language, that is modern yet whimsical, demure but magnificent and carefully crafted, Varma entwined history, myth and tradition in all his ensembles. The mix of traditional motifs with abstract artwork, further enhanced by age-old crafts of India, makes this a perfect ensemble for the — Feminine, Romantic and Modern Woman. Beautiful chiffons and georgettes, and versatile blouses formed the heart of the collection. The designer likes to put most detail where it is unexpected, like the blouses.
“Couture is essentially occasion wear. I started creating this collection four months ago. I can recount my life from one couture week to another and fashion week to fashion week as I know I have to do it two three times a year. So, its four months of work, then a collection, and so on and so forth,” says the designer.
Commenting on the fabrics, Varma says, “I have actually worked in couture for 13 years. It’s interesting how to treat textiles. With couture, it has to be more sheer, sexier, you treat them differently, you can dye them, sheer them, ombre them, there are lots of interesting ways in which you can treat them. I am working with textiles in two different ways, one is my home furnishing line and one is the fashion line.”
Aulerth is an ideology of high in-design and intelligently mindful jewellery. All the jewellery was not only crafted in Suneet Varma’s very distinctive couture signature but all of it was made from recycled metals and mining free stones. So, the brand believes in minimal to zero mining carbon footprint.
“When I was made aware of this brand’s ethos and their couture inspired jewellery, I was so excited. All of us have to be responsible through sustainable jewellery, or sustainable clothing, we have to be extremely mindful,” adds Varma. The meticulous detailing, motifs, jewel-toned stonework, and the overall design essence of the ‘Pakeezah Collection’ will spark joy in the hearts of every wearer.
The collection saw a lot of pearl embellishments too. “I love pearls as they symbolize purity. Whether it is Maharani Gayatri Devi or my mother wearing a string of pearls or the process of how pearls are actually made, the sensibility of the process and the finished product is what makes it so appealing.”
Varma used the colour red in his collection for the first time this year. “Have used red for the first time in 15 years in my collection as I felt all of us were in a celebratory mood, coming out of these two difficult years and to couture week. I wanted to celebrate the clothes, models, fashion and 15 years of couture week. I wanted it to be a moment of happiness couple with glamour.”